Walking the Milford Track – A Guide to New Zealand’s Most Famous Great Walk
The Milford Track is often referred to as the finest walk in the world, and after completing it, we can see why. Spanning 53.5km through Fiordland National Park, this legendary trail winds through lush rainforests, crosses swing bridges, and climbs to breathtaking alpine passes before descending into the famous Milford Sound. With cascading waterfalls, moss-covered valleys, and jaw-dropping vistas, it’s easy to understand why this hike is a bucket-list experience for so many.
Our adventure started months before we even set foot on the track. Booking a place on the Milford Track is a challenge in itself, requiring patience, fast internet, and a bit of luck. From securing our spot to the final moments at Sandfly Point, this is our experience—our challenges, the incredible landscapes, and everything in between.
The Race to Book the Milford Track
Booking the Milford Track is an event in itself. Every year, when the Department of Conservation (DOC) releases spots, thousands of eager hikers rush to secure one of the limited spaces. The demand is so high that the website often crashes under pressure, and within minutes, most dates are sold out.
I was at my computer at 9:30 AM on the release day, fully prepared for battle. As expected, the website crashed almost immediately. For 45 frustrating minutes, I refreshed the page, desperately trying to break through. Eventually, I managed to secure a spot, though not for my preferred date. Originally, we wanted to walk in March, but with spaces vanishing before my eyes, I locked in a departure for January 29, 2025. It wasn’t my first choice, but the important thing was that we had a place.
The Journey to the Start
Getting to the start of the Milford Track isn’t straightforward. From Wellington, we flew to Queenstown and had to stay the night due to flight schedules. While Queenstown is undeniably beautiful, it’s also packed with tourists and expensive, making it more of a necessary stop than a destination for this trip.
The following morning, we caught a shuttle for the three-hour ride to Te Anau Downs with RealNZ, where we boarded the ferry to the start of the track. The one-hour journey across Lake Te Anau was stunning, with still waters reflecting the mountains around us. As we neared Glade Wharf, the anticipation built—we were finally about to begin our hike.
Day 1 – Glade Wharf to Clinton Hut
The first day was an easy introduction to the track, with a gentle 5km walk from Glade Wharf to Clinton Hut. The path followed the Clinton River, its crystal-clear waters revealing every rock beneath the surface. The valley was lush and green, with glimpses of towering cliffs that hinted at the grandeur still to come.
Clinton Hut was simple but comfortable, with two large bunk rooms, a dining hall with stoves, and an outhouse. The atmosphere was relaxed as hikers cooked their meals, swapped stories, and played cards. The sky was perfectly clear, making for a peaceful night—except for the inevitable presence of snorers in the bunkroom. We quickly learned that earplugs and sleeping pills were going to be an essential part of this journey.
Day 2 – Clinton Hut to Mintaro Hut
Our second day covered 20km and saw us climbing gradually from 228m to 633m. The trail wound through ancient beech forests, following the Clinton River as it flowed through the valley. The rock walls on either side grew taller, waterfalls spilled down from above, and the sheer scale of the landscape became more apparent with every step.
Opting to travel light, I left my big camera behind and relied on an iPhone 15 Pro, shooting in RAW to capture the incredible scenery. The lack of cell reception didn’t matter—everywhere we turned, there was another postcard-worthy view.
Arriving at Mintaro Hut, we were impressed by how modern it was compared to the others. With USB charging, better lighting, and four rooms of 10 bunks each, it was the most comfortable of the huts. However, the weather turned quickly, bringing in strong winds and heavy rain. The DOC ranger warned that if the conditions worsened, we might be stuck an extra night. As we lay in our bunks listening to the storm outside, we weren’t sure what the morning would bring.
Day 3 – Mintaro Hut to Dumpling Hut
Luckily, by morning, the worst of the weather had passed, and we were able to continue. The climb to McKinnon Pass took about two hours, zigzagging up to 1,154m. The views from the top were breathtaking, with the Clinton Valley stretching behind us and the Arthur Valley opening up ahead. Standing at the Quintin McKinnon Memorial, we took in the incredible landscape, knowing this was one of the most famous viewpoints in New Zealand.
As we descended, we passed through an alpine garden before reaching the valley floor, where we took a side trip to Sutherland Falls—the highest waterfall in Australasia. The sheer power of the water was incredible, made even more dramatic by the rain from the night before. Getting close meant getting completely drenched, but it was one of the highlights of the entire trek.
Throughout the day, we had been hiking alongside three young guys we had met earlier in the trip. At one point, they suddenly sprinted ahead, determined to “reserve” the best bunks at Dumpling Hut for a mother and her two young daughters they had befriended. It was a funny effort, considering that reserving beds in DOC huts isn’t really a thing—your pack claims your spot.
Dumpling Hut was a welcome sight at the end of a long day. After three days on the track, we braved the freezing river for a quick wash, which was both exhilarating and unbearable at the same time. That night, a couple of early risers who planned to leave before dawn decided to sleep in the dining hall to avoid waking everyone else.
Day 4 – Dumpling Hut to Sandfly Point
The final stretch of the Milford Track covered 19.45 kilometers, mostly downhill, following the Arthur River through dense rainforest. The early morning light created incredible photo opportunities as mist hovered above the water.
Reaching Sandfly Point was a mix of relief and accomplishment. The moment I saw the waiting ferry, I knew I had done it—I had officially completed the Milford Track. Milford Sound, in contrast to the solitude of the hike, was packed with tourists. After a quick look around, I boarded the boat back to Milford Sound and then the bus to Queenstown, where I spent one final night before heading home.
Final Thoughts on the Milford Track
The Milford Track is long, but not overly difficult. The scenery is spectacular, and despite the crowds at Milford Sound, the hike itself remains an immersive experience in nature. If we could change one thing, it would be how DOC handles hut allocations—bunk assignments at booking would prevent the unnecessary rush for the best spots.
Having now completed the Milford, Routeburn, and Kepler Tracks, we can confidently say that each one offers something unique. The Milford Track, however, is in a league of its own. If you get the chance to do it, don’t hesitate—it’s an adventure you’ll never forget.